Burgundy Road Movie 2

Elegant, hearty breakfast at the Domaine de Bouloy: fresh eggs from the owner’s free range chickens, bacon, baguette, home made jams, coffee, hot chocolate, real orange juice… Comfy modern rooms, lush gardens, great place for weddings and parties, see their website http://www.domaine-du-bouloy.comimageimageFrench rooster emblem standing guard at the door…

Next stop, near Guédelon: 13th century Chateau de Ratilly, very cheerful once you step through the gate…image

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Lovingly restored by the Pierlot family, many things to see: ancient dovecote with revolving ladder, contemporary art exhibits, owner’s pottery workshop with nesting swallows, ceramics showroom with cream, sky blue/sapphire, and sea green pieces for the home and table. Synchronicity: turns out Lewis’s family water jug (right), treasured relic of his childhood, also came from this place (see tiny owl logo marked on side, Chateau de Ratilly trademark),  when he planned our itinerary he didn’t know he was retracing his parents’ steps) https://www.chateauderatilly.fr

Stopped for lunch in Saint-Amand-en-Puisaye at the welcoming Relais du Morvan:

http://le-relais-du-morvan.relais-du-morvan.fr

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Feasted on fresh fish and local meats, all garnished with colorful exotic fruits, chef Sébastien Bourgeois’ signature…(home made wild boar pâté, beef bourguignon, sole in sparkling white burgundy and cream sauce around an island of sautéd rutabaga, jerusalem artichokes, and parsnips topped with fresh spinach), wine: Côteaux du Giennois

Final destination: a friend’s house in La Charité sur Loire, sleepy little town on its namesake river, known for its vintage book shops, literary festival, and summer blues concerts…

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Addictive view from our host’s living room: Priory bell tower, Loire river and fields all the way to the horizon…

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Wined and dined for two days, walked along the ramparts and the Loire, hiked in ageless oak forests nearby… Thank you Étienne!

On the way back to Paris, explored Sully-sur-Loire castle…

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Burgundy Road Movie

image.jpegView from A6 highway driving south from Paris: huge sky, tiny village on the horizon…near Milly-La-Fôret and Fontainebleau…

2 hours away, approaching Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, Burgundy wine country…

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Looking for Goisot winery that uses Rudolph Steiner’s Biodynamic cultivation methods (featured in a documentary on Arté on May 17th). Due to frost and hale damage, no tastings were scheduled when we were there. http://www.goisot.fr

End of April frosts made headlines in the area and local winegrowers like Daniel Étienne Defaix set out smudge pots to keep the vines warm through the night:

IMG_2485[4]Chablis area between Auxerre and Tonnerre (photo by Myriam Da Silva). http://www.danieletiennedefaix.com

Lunch on main street at Le Saint Bris: homemade jambon persillé (ham terrine), onglet de veau à la crème d’oignons (local veal steak with creamed onions), fries, sparkling white burgundy (Crémant de Bourgogne)…

image   Le St Bris, great food, good service…

http://lesaintbris.eresto.net

image Dessert, “Truffé au Chocolat”…

image  Artist’s studio, nearby… Dionysus no doubt, in honor of Côtes d’Auxerre, Chablis, Irancy, all Pinot Noir grapes…

Local people recommended La Cave du Maître de Poste winery (Domaine Sorin) so we dropped into their beautiful courtyard to taste and purchase.

http://www.domaine-sorin-defrance.com

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Next stop town of Irancy: jovial Vicount and Vicountess Colinot in their ancestral wine cellar…delicious!     email: earlcolinot@aol.com      Tel: 03 86 42 33 25image

We also recommend Domaine Thierry Richoux  wine cellar. http://www.irancy.org

Tel: 03 86 42 21 60

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Looking over the valley…

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image Educational tourism: vast, spooky 2000 year old d’Aubigny stone quarry, “underground cathedral” near Druyes-les-Belles-Fontaines

image Checked into the beautiful Domaine de Bouloy BnB, with infinite turquoise panorama on the rue du bon dieu jaune (street of good yellow god?)… www.domaine-du-bouloy.com

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image Short drive to medieval town of Clamecy, restaurant Deux Pièces Cuisine…www.2pieces-cuisine.fr

imageMille feuille de foie gras de canard (layered duck liver), asparagus, raspberry vinegar, morillons mushrooms, on a thin slice of ginger bread…

Baudroie des mers froides grillée (grilled northern ocean monkfish), creamy black risotto, wine: Bouzeron blanc cuvée Axelle Bourgogne, 2014, Domaine Briday)

image Lemon tart…end of Day One