Paris 19th…Now:and then, before landscaping, Eiffel’s bridge, and the cliff-top temple:My favorite park is celebrating a big birthday–150 years… I thought I knew it by heart, but new signs commemorating remarkable trees and the park’s transformation are full of cool factoids:Did you know this tree is called “horse chestnut” because in ancient times its fruit was used as fodder? That this former quarry was a horse cemetery in the 19th century? That draft horses from Vincennes are still used here for logging? Planted in 1870, this sycamore is 25m tall. Tiny picnickers and miniature bench give an idea of scale…Another specimen:Planted in 1865, this one is 20m tall. Symbiotic parasites thicken its bark while its survival strategy creates an “elephant foot” shape at the base. In Greek mythology plane trees symbolized regeneration and it’s dark heavy wood was used to build the Trojan horse…It’s so huge I couldn’t fit it into one shot. People left of the trunk (center) add perspective.And on the other side of the park:An association called Kaloumba had set up awnings, tables, chairs and traditional games from all over the world, for all ages. One item from their beautiful collection:
Kaloumba specializes in keeping these alive as cultural, social, educational and therapeutic tools, organizing workshops to make your own games from recycled materials, to then keep or sell for worthy causes. Check out their website: http://kaloumba.com
Happy Birthday Buttes Chaumont 🙂 xxxxx Aliss
Firehouse in the Marais, soundcheck going on in the courtyard… Same thing happening all over France, flags and banners, firefighters setting up the annual Fireman’s Ball in honor of Bastille Day. In the olden days, it was about accordion music, live combos, tango, fox trots and slow dancing on cobblestones, checkered tablecloths, cheap champagne and flat beer in real glasses, women in skirts and dresses, men with their shirt sleeves rolled up, red faces from Renoir paintings… Now it’s huge PA systems, blaring pop and hip hop, fat cables duct taped on the cobblestones, cheap wine in plastic cups, bottled beer, clouds of marijuana smoke, a sea of faces of all colors, streetwear, tattoos and piercings… Fun of a different hue… Happy Bastille Day! xxxxx Aliss
In a tangle of streets fanning out along the Canal Saint Martin, Paris X, hidden gems await…THE spot of the moment, worth locating on unglamorous rue Vicq d’Azir near Metro Colonel Fabien, Fraîche, highly rated for top quality ingredients, creativity and fine service: http://www.fraicheparis.fr (See website for prices)
Above left: Seabream ceviche in sweet and sour marinade with taragon and piquillo peppers, sculpted radish, cucumber, herbs, and crisp. Right: Patience du moment hors’ d oeuvre, bowl of prawns in piquant herb salsa, spicy avocado dip, Asian cabbage, toasted bread from Liberté artisanal bakery and pâtisserie: http://libertepatisserieboulangerie.comCatch of the day sea bass with artichokes in poivrade sauce, sea asparagus, aged mimolette accents and several other delicious secret ingredients.Lemony madeleines to enjoy while we pay the bill (couldn’t resist mine)… And of course house-selected chilled rosé….Gender-equal kitchen with a female and a male chef: Tiffany Depardieu (Top Chef Season 2) and Michel Boivin. An attentive maitre ‘d watches over your table. Family and couple-friendly. Venturing down the hill to your left, more possibilities for summer evenings:Above, Le verre taquin, a highly-rated beer and wine bar: http://www.facebook.com/leverretaquinLa Baraque A tea room and coffee shop: http://www.facebook.com/La-Baraque-A-828761103855850/ praised online for delicious brunches and karaoke…And La Fontaine de Belleville for tasty and reasonable café food: http://lefooding.com/en/restaurants/restaurant-la-fontaine-de-belleville-paris
Nourishment for thought (in French): an article about 40 female chefs rockin’ the cuisine scene in Paris, lots of addresses to try:
And courtesy of my favorite travel writer and style curator, Sylvia Sabes http://m.facebook.com/LoveOnlyNParis/ ten eateries open during the annual Parisian summer closings:
Enjoy! xxxxx Aliss
Art on the canal… Many NLP (neurolinguistic programming) courses teach that when a person looks up to their left they’re making pictures and when they look up to their right they’re remembering pictures… This is controversial but MRI scans seem to show that imagining activates the neo-cortex (frontal lobe and most recently evolved area of the brain). According to these studies, visualizing a best-case scenario activates all parts of the brain (frontal-visual, mammalian-emotional, and reptilian-survival) in synergy, and there seems to be a loop effect–looking up stimulates positive image-making… so why not try it and “see”? To be continued xxxxx Aliss
This July Paris is opening it’s first “Live Water” swimming area on the canal in my neighborhood, the result of decades of work by city governments and local activists who’ve brought the river water that feeds the canal back to life. Particularly relevant as summer returns and I’m coming back to life myself after terror episodes and two exhausting presidential elections…also inspiring and galvanizing, as Trump withdraws the US from the Paris Climate Accords. Many of us are dedicated to keeping the planet alive and imagining a better future. He can’t stop us! xxxxx Aliss
Dear blog friends, Haven’t been able to post this week, hosting visitors, long conversations with long lost friends, sharing my favorite places. More thoughts taking shape about the soul of France, how cathedrals and cakes are holographic alphas and omegas of the traditional French experience, the first, centuries in the making, centuries standing solid, the second, sensual and ephemeral, but with the same love for graceful architecture, story-telling in images… More to come, love xxxxx Aliss
(Bakery Benoist, 29 avenue Secretan, Paris 75019, tel: 01 42 40 23 86, and rose window in Chartres Cathedral)
Emerging from jet lag. Cold clear Spring day. Big turn out at my voting bureau, multi-generational, multi-ethnic, very moving. Let there be hope!
Why aren’t US elections held on Sundays like in France?
Why is the sky a different color on the other side of the bridge?
To be continued…. xxxxx Aliss