In Montmartre today, Le Progrès caught my eye and matched my spirits.
7 rue des 3 Fréres, 75018 Paris, France (Montmartre) +33 1 42 64 07 37
In other news, we all got some pretty cool gifts over the weekend: COP21 agreement signed by almost 200 countries and a better consensus in the French regional elections.The Return of the Light feels like everybody’s birthday… Happy Birthday everybody!
Recipe for celebrations:
Deviled Quail Eggs with Red Caviar and Fresh Dill
Adapted from a pre-revolutionary Russian dish I tasted with Gleb Vladimirovich Tchijoff.
You will need: a lot of time and patience, 18 quail eggs, dijon mustard, mayo, a few drops of milk, red caviar (trout, salmon, lumpfish), and sprigs of fresh dill (plus water and vinegar for boiling, ice for cooling).
First off, quail eggs are the size of olives, so this is like making doll food. For best results, delicately place the quail eggs in a pan of warm water and bring to a boil, for 3-4 minutes depending on how you like your eggs, medium or very hard boiled. Lift them out of the pan into a dish of ice water. When cool, gently tap the eggs on a hard surface and then roll them in your palms to loosen the speckled shells. Try to slip your fingers under the membrane around the eggs to slide the shells off as smoothly as possible. If the eggs are too fresh the shells will stick and the whites will tear. This isn’t too serious because you’ll be able to shape them back together with the yolk mixture when it’s ready. Warning: this takes time!
When the shells are off, cut the eggs in half with a very sharp knife, scoop the yolks into a bowl, and using a fork, mix with a tablespoon of dijon mustard, a teaspoon or so of mayo and just enough milk to get a creamy texture. With a tiny spoon, fill the whites with yolk mixture, sprinkle with grains of red caviar and tiny branches of dill. Chill and array on a pretty plate.
Your guests will be amazed 🙂
xxxx Love, Aliss
(PS In the original recipe, you just hard boil the eggs, cut in half and top with red caviar and dill. I like the deviled version even though it’s ridiculously work-intensive…)