Rockin’ the Cuisine Scene: Canal St M

In a tangle of streets fanning out along the Canal Saint Martin, Paris X, hidden gems await…THE spot of the moment, worth locating on unglamorous rue Vicq d’Azir near Metro Colonel Fabien, Fraîche, highly rated for top quality ingredients, creativity and fine service:  http://www.fraicheparis.fr (See website for prices)

DSC03602Above left: Seabream ceviche in sweet and sour marinade with taragon and piquillo peppers, sculpted radish, cucumber, herbs, and crisp. Right: Patience du moment hors’ d oeuvre, bowl of prawns in piquant herb salsa, spicy avocado dip, Asian cabbage, toasted bread from Liberté artisanal bakery and pâtisserie: http://libertepatisserieboulangerie.comDSC03601Catch of the day sea bass with artichokes in poivrade sauce, sea asparagus, aged mimolette accents and several other delicious secret ingredients.DSC03600Lemony madeleines to enjoy while we pay the bill (couldn’t resist mine)… And of course house-selected chilled rosé….DSC03604 (1)Gender-equal kitchen with a female and a male chef: Tiffany Depardieu (Top Chef Season 2) and Michel Boivin. An attentive maitre ‘d watches over your table. Family and couple-friendly.DSC03603 Venturing down the hill to your left, more possibilities for summer evenings:DSC03619Above, Le verre taquin, a highly-rated beer and wine bar: http://www.facebook.com/leverretaquinDSC03620La Baraque A tea room and coffee shop: http://www.facebook.com/La-Baraque-A-828761103855850/ praised online for delicious brunches and karaoke…DSC03621And La Fontaine de Belleville for tasty and reasonable café food: http://lefooding.com/en/restaurants/restaurant-la-fontaine-de-belleville-paris

Nourishment for thought (in French): an article about 40 female chefs rockin’ the cuisine scene in Paris, lots of addresses to try:

http://www.telerama.fr/sortir/les-40-femmes-qui-agitent-la-gastronomie-parisienne,154973.php

And courtesy of my favorite travel writer and style curator, Sylvia Sabes http://m.facebook.com/LoveOnlyNParis/ ten eateries open during the annual Parisian summer closings:

http://www.lefigaro.fr/sortir-paris/2017/07/05/30004-20170705ARTFIG00021-dix-tables-ouvertes-en-juillet-et-en-aout-a-paris.php

Enjoy! xxxxx Aliss

Taste Paris!

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If you’re within traveling distance, don’t miss this event near the Champs Élysées, in the Grand Palais, a vestige of the World’s Fair of 1900, itself worth the trip!

Taste of Paris Ticket Info

Some of the delicacies and the people who create them:

DSC03503At the Ferrandi Culinary Academy stand: Onion stuffed with onion, crouton, sorrel and matured mimolette cheese + Mousseline goose egg, shredded goose neck, grilled corn and herbs from chef Amandine Chaignot (turning her back to her photo at left):

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Chef Yoshitaka Takayanagi of Agapé:DSC03504

White asparagus, organic egg yolk confit (like a very subtle pineapple hollandaise sauce!), bottarga and flowers + Smoked red tuna tataki, beetroot medley, condiments and flowers:DSC03505

From Chef Philippe Labbé at the Tour d’Argent (vying to restore their two-star rank):DSC03508

Challans duck sausage by Liliane Burgaud, cabbage stuffed with duck, crumble, fresh dill, caraway seeds, home made ketchup:DSC03507

Star chef Thierry Marx posing with fans, in person he looks like Bruce Willis 🙂DSC03510

His Confit veal shank, macaroni au gratin and truffle emulsion + Heirloom tomatoes, strawberry, mozzarella di bufala, vanilla oil…DSC03512

Pastry star Christophe Adam’s creations at l’Éclair de Génie:DSC03515

Éclairs caramel noisette: caramel cream, hazelnut praline, wafer and caramel icing:DSC03514

But we chose his Vanilla pecan éclair sandwich with vanilla ganache, caramelized pecan praline, and milk chocolate:DSC03516

After sampling white wines (Chateau Le Grand Verdus, Expression 2015, and Domaine de Pouilly Clos de la Condemine 2016) and a red (South African Marianne Wine Estate, Okoma 2015), we sipped arabica expresso coffee by Illy and shared a glass of Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut Champagne…DSC03517

My advice: get there early, 11 or so, before the crowds, before the heat, if it’s sunny… Otherwise, tables in the shade around the perimeter. Keep your first set of plastic cutlery and goblet so you don’t wind up tossing dozens of utensils 🙂 There’s good live music:DSC03519

Also cooking classes, meetings with chefs and book signings, displays of organic vegetables, cheeses, wines, honey, coffee, tea, jams, mustards…improvised sing-alongs and choreography to Yanick’s danse hit “Cette soirée-là” led by the young team at Nubé:DSC03509

Don’t miss À la recherche des femmes chefs documentary film by Vérane Frédiani, coming out on July 5th Female Chefs

Thank you my dear Nicola Manwaring for sharing this with us!

To be continued! xxxxxx Aliss

Upstate of Mind (2)

With Paris as my prism, visiting small towns a couple of hours north of Manhattan…

Lucky to catch a beautiful show near the Rondout waterfront at the Art Society of Kingston by Mary Anne Erickson, co-creator of local food temple Bistro-to-Go, artist and neon designer among her many talents. A recent trip to India inspired photographic prints on silk, suspended on rods and transparent lines from high ceilings in a softly lit space. Here she is in a frock made from one of her photographs on fabric:DSC02832

Some of my favorites:

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Mary Anne’s intro:DSC02835

To purchase the catalog and see more of Mary Anne’s work, including her paintings of America’s disappearing roadside folk art and the neon sign she designed for her Blue Mountain Bistro-to-Go:

maryanneerickson.com

For the restaurant:

www.bluemountainbistro.com

To be continued  xxxxx Aliss

Moments of Heaven

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Palais Royal arcades, summer walk

So much hell in the world, I cherish every moment of heaven on earth. Sublime dinner at Versance restaurant on rue Feydeau near the Bourse Stock Exchange.DSC02795

Emblem: fresh frond on the tablecloth under the plate.

Mise en bouche (tiny hors d’oeuvre): Crème de pois chiche et tomate, piment d’espelette (mini glass of cream of tomato and chick pea soup seasoned with Espelette pepper from south west France).

Starter: Effeuillé de sésame aux langoustines et asperges, mizuna au jus de crustacés et crème fermière au yuzu. (Still trying to find a translation for this dish that transforms the Franco-Japanese ingredients into erotic poetry about bared sesame crisps, seafood and vegetables)… I was so taken aback, I forgot to take a picture.

Main dish: Pavé de caballaud confit dans son beurre aux épices et duo carotte: mousseline de carotte à l’orange en crumble café. (My photo doesn’t do it justice, and translation would kill it, but let’s just say it’s lightly caramelized cod, in Asian-influenced spicy butter sauce amidst a sculpture of colorful fresh garden veggies, with a hint of coffee in sprinkled croutons…)

DSC02796 Wine: Saint Veran Domaine Paradis, 2014

Instead of dessert, a selection of assorted cheeses, from Monsieur Chevinet.

Mignardises (hand made chocolates). Expresso. www.leversance.fr

DSC02798Romantic stroll under the arcades  of 17th century Palais Royal Garden, built for Cardinal Richelieu, inhabited by Louis XIV and later French author Colette…. Que demande le peuple?

to be continued…xxxx Aliss

Burgundy Road Movie

image.jpegView from A6 highway driving south from Paris: huge sky, tiny village on the horizon…near Milly-La-Fôret and Fontainebleau…

2 hours away, approaching Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, Burgundy wine country…

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Looking for Goisot winery that uses Rudolph Steiner’s Biodynamic cultivation methods (featured in a documentary on Arté on May 17th). Due to frost and hale damage, no tastings were scheduled when we were there. http://www.goisot.fr

End of April frosts made headlines in the area and local winegrowers like Daniel Étienne Defaix set out smudge pots to keep the vines warm through the night:

IMG_2485[4]Chablis area between Auxerre and Tonnerre (photo by Myriam Da Silva). http://www.danieletiennedefaix.com

Lunch on main street at Le Saint Bris: homemade jambon persillé (ham terrine), onglet de veau à la crème d’oignons (local veal steak with creamed onions), fries, sparkling white burgundy (Crémant de Bourgogne)…

image   Le St Bris, great food, good service…

http://lesaintbris.eresto.net

image Dessert, “Truffé au Chocolat”…

image  Artist’s studio, nearby… Dionysus no doubt, in honor of Côtes d’Auxerre, Chablis, Irancy, all Pinot Noir grapes…

Local people recommended La Cave du Maître de Poste winery (Domaine Sorin) so we dropped into their beautiful courtyard to taste and purchase.

http://www.domaine-sorin-defrance.com

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Next stop town of Irancy: jovial Vicount and Vicountess Colinot in their ancestral wine cellar…delicious!     email: earlcolinot@aol.com      Tel: 03 86 42 33 25image

We also recommend Domaine Thierry Richoux  wine cellar. http://www.irancy.org

Tel: 03 86 42 21 60

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Looking over the valley…

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image Educational tourism: vast, spooky 2000 year old d’Aubigny stone quarry, “underground cathedral” near Druyes-les-Belles-Fontaines

image Checked into the beautiful Domaine de Bouloy BnB, with infinite turquoise panorama on the rue du bon dieu jaune (street of good yellow god?)… www.domaine-du-bouloy.com

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image Short drive to medieval town of Clamecy, restaurant Deux Pièces Cuisine…www.2pieces-cuisine.fr

imageMille feuille de foie gras de canard (layered duck liver), asparagus, raspberry vinegar, morillons mushrooms, on a thin slice of ginger bread…

Baudroie des mers froides grillée (grilled northern ocean monkfish), creamy black risotto, wine: Bouzeron blanc cuvée Axelle Bourgogne, 2014, Domaine Briday)

image Lemon tart…end of Day One

 

(O)living the Life

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You haven’t (o)lived until you’ve been to La Tête dans les Olives, rue Sainte-Marthe, Paris  10th arrondissement, just up the hill from the dreamy Canal Saint Martin and Chez Philou (see previous post), at the entrance to a hidden passageway leading to secret Place Sainte Marthe (where you might think you’re inland from the Rivera, near Manosque). It’s the smallest restaurant/grocery you’ll ever encounter, but so full of deliciousness, you’ll never forget it. You must meet Mr. Andrea and see his tiny boutique with a view on a green courtyard. He will pour you tiny spoons of the best olive oil you ever put in your mouth, direct from his friends’ olive groves in SicilyDSC02649so you can choose the ones to take home from different varieties for cooking and salads (all in beautiful reusable bottles)…

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Every square inch is packed with salted ricotta and other seasonal cheeses, pasta, mushrooms, bread, herbs, sun dried tomatoes, wild fennel seeds, capers in salt, white figs, dried tuna eggs, tuna bresaola, tuna sausage, dried swordfish eggs and more…

Go to their website to reserve the best (and only) table for an intimate dinner sampling olive their wares:

http://www.latetedanslesolives.com

(also on Facebook)

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Your taste buds will quote Wikipedia:

“Olive oil has long been considered sacred. The olive branch was often a symbol of abundance, glory and peace. The leafy branches of the olive tree were ritually offered to deities and powerful figures as emblems of benediction and purification, and they were used to crown the victors of friendly games and bloody wars. Today, olive oil is still used in many religious ceremonies. Over the years, the olive has been the symbol of peace, wisdom, glory, fertility, power and purity.”

As the French say, “Tu m’en diras des nouvelles”  = “You’ll thank me”!

xxxxxx Aliss